A scroll saw allows inside cuts, such as in formers. These cuts can not be accomplished with a band saw. The first time you need to cut the middle from a plywood former and all you have is an X-Acto knife, you'll understand why a scroll saw is a nice thing to have. Also see
(OK, I've got to tell you that I'm about over fixing links to scroll saws. Seriously. Next time I have to do it I'm just nixing them and if you're interested you'll have to do a Google search. I guess people who sell scroll saws can't stay in business more than six months or something. I don't know what the problem is but of all the links that get broken on this site, links to scroll saws get broken then all the rest combined it seems.) | ||||||
I currently own two scroll saws. My older scroll saw is a Delta clone (I don't remember the manufacturer and the label is worn off). The table is cast iron. I added an aquarium pump with tubing as a sawdust blower so I can see the line I'm cutting to. This saw does not have a variable speed feature but it would be more useful if it did. It is worth the extra cost for this feature. It served me well for nearly 20 years but is now a backup. My newest scroll saw is a 20" Craftsman model. It has all the bells and whistles (work lamp, sawdust blower, 2-direction tilt table, variable speed and vacuum attachment). The saw has some significant problems, unfortunately. I wouldn't buy it again. The blade change setup is the most tedious of any saw I've ever seen. It is easy to drop the hex key or blade down in the saw from where they are difficult to retrieve. I permanently removed the left side panel which resolved that problem. I made a new insert from aircraft plywood finished with lacquer. I saved the plastic insert for when I have to cut metal so that the shavings won't tear up the plywood insert. The blade can not be put in the saw sideways which seems really stupid. The upper blade holder will rotate in 90° increments, but the bottom holder can not be rotated. If the bottom holder was modified so that it could rotate, then unlimited length cuts could be made. Lastly, the table rusts instantly. I'm not kidding about that. I was using the saw one day and dripped sweat on the table. I could see the table beginning to rust within seconds. So far no amount of wax on the table has resolved the problem. I finally resorted to one of the most expensive waxes available and it has helped, but not entirely prevented rusting. The wax I use now is 3M Ultra-Performance wax for boats. My first scroll saw was an older Dremel model that I hope is discontinued. It was the worst excuse for a tool I've come across barring cheap K-Mart screwdrivers. The Dremel saw had a stamped sheet metal table that could pivot 45º in either direction. On the front was a protractor-like piece that was secured by a wing nut to lock the table. There was a notch that was supposed to be at 0º but was actually off a couple degrees. Because of the way the notch was stamped, it was impossible to get the table level. It either had to be in the notch or either side of it and 0º just happened to be right between the two. I'm wondering if the Dremel factory is built on a slope or something because one the main problems I've had with their tools is misalignment. The other problem is cheap bearings. See my Dremel Tirade on the Moto Tools page. High End Scroll SawsThese are the cream of the crop when it comes to scroll saws. They are much too expensive for me and overkill for the kind of work I do. While these saws are very high quality, they are intended for craftsman who's work centers around a scroll saw. | ||||||
In past years I had a heck of a time finding good blades for my scroll saws. Most blades are too coarse or cheaply made from stamped sheet metal. I've purchased just about every blade available from Sears, Lowes and Home Depot as well as various hardware stores. None of these sources carry blades that can cut soft balsa smoothly, although I did find a blade that could cut plywood with no splintering. Unfortunately, I don't remember where I got the blades and I ran out of them years ago. Scroll saw blades stay sharp for only about 30 minutes to an hour. They dull even faster when cutting plywood or metal. Additionally, very fine blades that can cut balsa smoothly also break very easily. A handful of blades won't last very long. Once you find the blades you like, buy a lot of them. I've found an excellent source of high quality scroll saw blades — German made, Flying Dutchman brand. These blades are milled, not stamped. Assuming you select the correct blades, any material that we use can be cut with a very smooth edge. Flying Dutchman blades are available from Mike's Workshop. Mike also has good information on his site regarding using your scroll saw. Send Mike an e-mail and he'll send you a couple free samples to try out. Ask for the Superior Puzzle blade. I've found it works very well on soft balsa. For plywood, get a fine reverse tooth blade. The reverse teeth will help prevent tear-out and splintering on the underside of the plywood.
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However, I would have had to use a box cutter for the airboat I built,Marsh Hawk, had I not found access to a band saw and that would have really been unpleasant. A band saw can cut thicker/harder materials than most scroll saws and are more accurate for straight cuts. The more I read about band saws the more I realize that setting one up properly is an art unto itself. Again, my experience with this tool is very limited so I'm not the person to ask about them. | ||||||
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Copyright © 2002-2007 Paul K. Johnson |
Airfield Models - Scroll Saws for Model Building (2024)
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